I’m sure there is part of me that sublimely wants to be a food critic. Early in my education – after deciding not to purse art school (another story entirely), but before studying economics – I debated heavily about getting a degree in culinary arts. I had just returned from living in the Netherlands where I had spent time around Maastricht and Masstricht University and loved the atmosphere there. It is a fabulous, cultural city tucked on the Belgium-Netherlands border and straddling the Mass river. The perfect place to study food.
But I digress. I went into economics. I chose the dismal science over the gastronomic science. I don’t know that I’d consider myself a true foodie while at the same time I lack the writing eloquence to adequately capture how a given course rolls over my taste buds. So it was probably wise I chose demand and supply curves over whisks and spatulas professionally. And yet there is a part of me that likes the idea of being a food and hotel critic (though as a glass half-full kinda guy I’m not especially critical). As I’ve mentioned before, my travels afford me the opportunity to partake in some amazing meals and stay in some wonderful places. I am full of intentions to write about these experiences but I never quite find make the time to capture these experiences in writing. And still I digress (which might explain my lack of reviews to-date).
As I wrote about recently, I’ve started a bucket list of DC-area “dives” and I have full intentions of documenting these culinary experiences as I cross them off the list. Here comes the first stop.
Earlier this week I ate at Fast Gourmet (Yelp review, Zagat review). Fast Gourmet is an unassuming sandwich shop tucked into the back of a gas station at the corner of 14th street and W in Washington, DC. The gentrification that bled from Adams Morgan to Logan’s circle and eventually worked it’s way up 14th street to the U Street corridor is spreading into the neighboring streets. While some of it is still a work-in-progress, this area has been greatly gentrified over the last decade and Fast Gourmet clearly benefits from the gentrification.
Fast Gourmet occupies the space that was likely once the “quickie mart” of a cash-only gas station in a part of Washington DC that had fallen deeply into disarray following the 1968 riots and had only in the last decade begun to return to its prior stature.
You wouldn’t notice it was there, unless you knew it was there and you probably wouldn’t be inclined to stop if you didn’t know – presuming it to be nothing more than “gas station cuisine.” However, while tucked into the gas station, the newer Fast Gourmet sign does give away it’s identify as does the large “2011 Best of Washingtonian” sign hanging on the roof line.
Upon entering the restaurant gas station, you are greeted by a full service sandwich shop with a slight industrial feel though it is clear you are inside a gas station.
We ordered the Cubano with a side of yuka and the Big Mason’s BBQ Chicken sandwich with a side of sweet potato fries. The Cubano was amazing. I don’t know that I would claim it as the best Cuban I’ve ever had, but it was a unique Cuban and would rank with the ones I’ve had in Florida. The use of pulled pork gave it a decidedly southern BBQ feel which I really enjoyed. The sandwich oozed with fresh melted cheese and was flooded with meats. It was a massive serving and could have easily been shared by two or three people. I however, ate the entire thing myself….and forewent dinner that evening as a result.
The Big Mason’s BBQ chicken sandwich was served with sharp cheddar cheese and bacon. The sandwich is a simple grilled chicken breast dripping with BBQ sauce. While I lack the words to sufficiently describe it, the BBQ sauce was fabulous with a unique flavor. It has just enough sweetness. The sandwich is served with lettuce, tomatoes, and onions – all of which blend into the BBQ sauce – while the bacon and cheese provide just enough flavor over the top of the dominating (though not overbearing) richness of the BBQ sauce.
The sweet potato fries were good. They seemed perhaps twice fried. The yuka on the other hand was dry and tasteless and even salt couldn’t save it. It was served however with a chipotle mayonnaise sauce which helped redeem some of the lack of flavor.
